Climbers Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost and Graham McGrath have founded Take Me Back to the Desert, a beautiful new rock and mixed trail up to Bein Eghe in Scotland.
Storms hitting the British Isles have finally brought the perfect conditions for a winter ascent in Scotland and the first to start the season were Tilly Cottrell and Mike Letts who made the first ascent north buttress alley (III) At Blah Bhin on the Isle of Skye, it is Greg Boswell who, as always, has taken the bar too high with a new route on Bein Aighe in the Highlands, climbing with Hamish Frost and Graham McGrath.
On Monday the team opened a new and straight winter route to the left of the Ramparts Buttress, east of Bein Eghe, climbing a steep and continuous line across three pitches. The line had never been climbed before, not even in the summer, and does not cross other existing routes.
Boswell climbed the first two pitches as leader, explaining: “The first pitch goes straight through the arched roof and up into a system of technical cracks, reaching a belay down the massive and hanging final wall. The second pitch looked easier but proved to be the crux. Compared to the headwall Was too fast it seemed and was quick to uncover the secrets needed to unlock this mega line before my arms exploded! McGrath then drove all three to the summit, just in time to enjoy the breathtaking view.
The story behind the first ascent is interesting and certainly adds value to their feat: they originally wanted to climb the same mountain as something on the Far East Wall, but upon arrival they realized it was not in condition, So he turned his attention to the ramparts. decided to. take me back to the desert It climbed on sight, with only conventional safety, without pickets or bolts, and was graded IX 9. As Boswell told us, the way is worthy”3 or 4 stars and its status and quality is second to none!”
contact: FB Greg Boswell, IG Greg Boswell, gregboswell.co.uk, www.scottishwinter.com
Greg thanks: scarpa, petzli, Sunto, RAB, Leki, Lowe Alpine, Edelweiss, Sea2Summit, Cab9
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