The edition of Pitti Imagine Philati, dedicated to the fall/winter 2023-24 trends, ends on July 1. Business consultant from the fashion and textile sector explains Emanuela Contini Who saw it: « Pitti Filti has returned to Fortezza da Basso, with the development of clothing and ideas in the field of fashion proposals and really beautiful trends. In general – they say – many fancy yarns, knitting, jacquard and three-dimensional processes. A lot of research into print and decoration, as if we wanted to end a historical era full of concerns with fashion. Talking with some of the people at the fair, I got a lot of positive feedback on the supply chain and the turnout and interest in Italian companies. Many exotic, of course also because autumn winter is to be planned and knitwear will be a great and important hero of the next collection ».
Of particular interest was the Spazio Raisarca, as usual curated by Angelo Figus and Nicola Miller and in which, collected under the title Intothewild, depicted the trends of the next season, entirely in a green setting. It was proposed where plants, large leaves and flowers intermingled. and merged with the proposals of stitches and threads, creating an almost primitive nature, penetrating to the shapes, which remind us that we live in a wild age: golden, but wild, Equipped with all the amenities, but wild. But also the Romantic era, because the wild was a good myth, the myth of man and his being good by nature. In perfect harmony with nature. The Intothewild mood was developed in three themes – basic instinct, Victor Vittoria, cannibals – explained as follows.
basic nature It is a matter of decline, which we envision as a backwards path in the timeline of human development. Reduce. reuse. Like an initial scream. a mantra. Let’s take a step back and then five thousand years ago, to the Stone Age, in the hope that this will be enough to restore balance to save the planet. Hopefully this will be enough to bring back the wonder of the discovery without any sort of superstructure for our future reconstruction of tools. a primitive future. Primitive purity and simplicity. Was thinking of knitwear for functionality, longevity and recovery. The theme re-uses, repairs, embroiders and covers stitches, mixing colors and threads, evoking a creative reuse. Natural material, coarse workmanship, wavy facet, grainy surface. Knitting, patterns, jacquard and simple designs, graphics, dotted, micro-geometric. Shaded, marble tincture, tweed. The colors are of minerals and fossil plants. Wide range of soils up to dark reddish brown.
Victor Vittoria Emphasizes gender fluidity. Title Chori from the famous eighties movie Jahan Nothing Is What It Looks Like. The quest for fluidity is affirmed in fashion, art and culture as a very strong theme that draws inspiration from economy and politics. The theme sublimely and elegantly emphasizes the eradication of gender identities until the roles are reversed. Till misunderstanding. The theme is represented in a historical key and explored as the corset, the focal point, an architectural and anatomical object without gender limitation. Imagine clothing with dual interpretations, essential and rich, masculine and feminine, that transform usage and image when coordinated and combined in an unconventional way. A creative game of shapes, colors, stitches and threads. The patterns are reminiscent of Scottish classics and luxurious furnishings, without neglecting the Prince of Wales. Macro-geometry, tone-on-tone cashmere, light metallic inserts, decorative jacquard, herringbone. Rich and decorative materials and fibers. Nothing is basic or minimal. The color chart is inspired by the English landscape, with orange being a mix of red, green and pale yellow.
cannibalNature is wild by definition. Wild nature means a place which is not affected or modified by man or which persists in spite of his intervention. Wild and unpolluted nature gives us the most extraordinary and romantic spectacle, the expression of beauty in the most true and most complete state. Of the many manifestations of this increasingly fragile, rare nature to be preserved and protected, one is of particular interest to us: carnivorous plants manifest in their predatory splendor that undermines nature’s fundamental ability to adapt to anything To make manifest. A dangerous, deadly attraction. The tasks are very clear. Textiles enchant with the sensuality of the openwork, with the abundance of stitches, with the contrasts of attractive colors, with patterns, jacquard and excessive embellishments. Jerseys are like large seductive, almost hypnotic flowers. The yarns are shiny, wavy, rich, the fibers are synthetic, artificial, almost science fiction. Cheerful, strong, showy colours. From fuchsia to purple, golden yellow to full almost summer greens.
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